Tuesday 11 December 2012

Hulmes Court Dunedin

Hulmes Court B & B


Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Down in the deep south - well almost in the deep south - at least in Dunedin -  is Hulme's Court B & B. Well known to locals for its distinctive turreted attic at the front of the house, Hulme's Court has been a part of Dunedin for a long time. Built in the 1860s for a renowned surgeon of the time and architecturally designed, it is recognised on the Historic Places Trust register. A notable and interesting building spread over four levels, it also has a generous garden of trees and shrubs, all the while being only five minutes walk from the heart of Dunedin and the Octagon.


Hulme's Court has a  number of bedrooms available with various themes being developed to create appeal.  It also owns and operates the Victorian style property next door. However it is the turreted room at the front of the house which is particularly unique with its hexagonal sides supporting the turret above. An art-deco style stained glass door separates the en-suite from the bedroom. Essentially this is a generously furnished and an agreeable space with rich coloured wallpaper, interesting art on the walls, and lollypops on the bed. Who doesn't appreciate a lollypop after all?  My only regret was that it wasn't possible to actually go up into the turret.



Breakfast at Hulme's Court is a help yourself affair, but there is plenty to choose from and the view out to the harbour is great. A big old marble fireplace in the breakfast room is an attractive feature. I and the cats wished it was going - not that it was cold at all, only that there is nothing quite like a fire for warming the soul.
Hulme's Court is comfortable and pleasant, -    more quirky than unusual, but still an interesting and relatively inexpensive place to stay.





Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Tuesday 20 November 2012

Ohariu Farm Cottage

Ohariu Farm Cottage

Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

To the west of Wellington, just before you reach Cook Strait  is Ohariu Valley. Quite rural, quite isolated, yet only ten minutes from a large-ish suburb, Ohariu Valley is a world away from city life. A night spent at Ohariu Farm Cottage is a great break from city living.

The cottage is beautifully appointed, and so welcoming. The table is set for two. The kitchen is fully equipped. The tv and sound system are modern. The overall effect might be of  a country cottage but a luxurious country cottage, - more like the manor house itself, than the servant's quarters.



The cottage is simple but pretty from the front. At the back it is the sweepingly lush lawn which is really appealing, especially in the way the trees and bushes are planted around it to create a private sheltered space.

It was nice to have breakfast provisions supplied and to have chocolates on the pillow; - always a nice touch! The kitchen was well stocked and there was plenty of heating. The shower and bathroom were spotless -  but who needs a shower when the piece de resistance is waiting out on the lawn ....

The fire bath was of course the real appeal. Not being a dab hand at fire making it was especially pleasant to find that the fire was set ready to go, and fire starters were provided! I have had my share of failures in heating the water in a fire bath. Not this time. My fire was still working well by the time the wine had diminished (evaporation?) and darkness had fallen. 
I particularly liked the sound of the wind up in the treetops, even though the corner of the grounds where the fire-bath sat remained quite sheltered. The candles didn't even blow out!




Ohariu Cottage is a nice spot. Well worth a visit.

Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Saturday 27 October 2012

Singapore and the Amazing Gardens By The Bay


Singapore -  An Amazing City with a New Jewel in its Crown
Text & Photos – Pippy McCurdy

                                                           1.

Steeped in colonial history Singapore is a city on the rise filled with youth and vitality; a city coloured by an array of cultures; a city which still respects its origins but is more than a little excited about the future!

Recently, on the harbour edge of the city, an amazing vision has been unfolding. In the Gardens by the Bay architecture meets ecology; sculpture meets nature; art meets excitement. Truly my predominant thought as I wandered through the Gardens was that here was an architectural vision which had somehow slipped through the hands of the regulators, the cost cutters and the pragmatists. Here the original dream has managed to emerge intact.

Singapore River



To reach the Gardens, make your way to the edge of the Singapore River which flows gently through the city and down to the coast. Follow the river to Marina Bay where you will find the Gardens, - your final destination. These gardens will supersede any preconceived expectations you might have had; – it might be hard to believe but quite literally, your final destination is like nothing you will have ever seen before!



2.





Little India - Singapore





 Whether you choose to explore Chinatown, Little India, Bugis Junction, the more upmarket  Orchard Road, or the colonial past you will be thrilled by what you discover. The walk towards the Bay along the river bank is an event in itself and hour by hour, day by day, you never know what you will come across. 


                                                                            3.



Singapore



Part of the fascination of Singapore is that seamless intertwining of both colonial and Asian heritage. The essence of Singapore is in its diverse meeting of British, Malaysian, Indian and Chinese lifestyles. Day and night, Singapore hums. Always busy. Shopping, praying, eating, working, - a 24 hour city in every sense of the word.






4. 




Singapore
                                                                5.






The West bank is a  fascinating series of layers, from tall skyscrapers, to shophouses with frontages almost on the riverbank, leaving just enough room for shady awnings where you can sit to  eat drink and relax – and maybe catch a gentle river breeze.



Singapore river

6.



If there is one thing that stands out about Singapore it is that this city understands and expresses itself in colour. Unlike other cities, Singapore is not confined by a palette of white black and concrete grey.  The vibrancy of the street lanterns, the umbrellas and the parasols, the rich golds of the tea urns at the shop fronts, the decorative patterns of the buildings and the temples, the multi-colours of the street lanterns, all combine to make Singapore come alive Whether it is the flowers, the buildings, the markets or the streetscape,  all are a visual celebration.


Singapore Streetlife



7.
But even all of this will not prepare you for the Gardens.  As you near Marina Bay you will reach a beautiful bridge, sheathed in coils of reflective stainless steel tubing. Walking through the double helix - a transparent tunnel of light and reflection, - is an event in itself and a fitting arrival to the Bay.



Singapore Marina Bay
  8.


To the left the Singapore Flyer - currently the world’s tallest wheel, -  reaches up to an amazing 42 stories in height. To the right is Marina Bay Sands -a striking example of symbolic architecture dominating the view . With its triple towers it is tall and imposing, - only opened eighteen months yet already very much an icon.
 The astonishing capping to these towers is the elongated liner stretching between the three pillars like a huge river barge washed up by the forces of a giant tsunami.  By taking architectural metaphor to the extreme, the architects of Marina Bay Sands have made an astonishing statement. This has already become one of the most photographed buildings of the twenty-first century.

Singapore

9.

And so at last to the park of all parks – the Gardens By the Bay; - a large outdoor park celebrating the plantings and garden styles of the world, with two glazed indoor pavilions and an outdoor elevated promenade.  But the Gardens By The Bay are so much more than this.  Truly, Singapore now has a new jewel in its crown. Only opened in 2011, already Singaporeans pour into this 101 hectare park to enjoy the lush coolness, the stunning waterfall, the scintillating tree top walk. This is already the number one destination in a city of destinations.

The smaller of the two glazed  pavilions is  the Flower Dome. Plantings from different countries designate the regions of this dome, and whether your preference is succulents, exotic species, or local varieties, you will find this barrage of colour a pleasure to stroll through.  This pavilion is hugely popular amongst Singaporeans and is used as a backdrop for photo shoots and wedding parties, as well as by those who come to admire the ever changing floral displays.


Singapore
10.


 

Called a cool dry climate, the Flower Dome sits at a very comfortable and pleasant 23 – 25 degrees. (A hot summer’s day where I come from.) Vivid and varied, it is difficult to believe that it has only been open a year. This pavilion will only benefit from its years of maturity when plants flourish and intermingle as they reach skyward.

Time to move on. Because as much as you may have enjoyed the gentle pleasures of the Flower Dome, the second glassed pavilion – the Cloud Forest – is breath-taking. Step inside to be met by a swirling mist created as a towering waterfall drops to a pool in front of you.

This spectacular entrance is transfixing. The towering waterfall - all 35 metres of it – cascades down from the top of a man-made mountain cloaked in the plants of a high tropical mountain forest.

A processional path leads you on into this pavilion, and up by lift through the interior of the mountain. Emerge near the top but now behind the waterfall where you can step out onto a viewing platform and look down on those entering below.




Gardens by the Bay Singapore
 11.


Cloaked in greenery this mountain inside a bio- dome is awe inspiring.  Yet when you reach the top via the heart of the mountain you have only touched on the experience, because now you are able to wend your way down from the heights, on walkways which snake in and out of the mountain, or suspend breathtakingly over the visitors and landscapes below.

Gardens By the Bay Singpaore
12.


Looking down over pools and tree ferns or out beyond the dome to the port and the ships anchored in the Singapore Straits , you are in the midst of an unforgettable visual symphony.  There  are displays of stalactites and stalagmites to admire as you pass through the mountain and continue your descent via these miraculous swooping cantilevering walkways.  Finally back at the foot of the mountain, the exit  is via a multimedia display with an intense message, showing the harm a five degree temperature rise could do to this wondrous world. It is a powerful and unavoidable eco-statement.



Gardens by the Bay Singapore


13.


Leaving behind the cooling moist air of the Cloud Forest, and stepping back into the luxuriously dense heat of Singapore, the Gardens by the Bay offer one more unforgettable experience as you move on to the amazing Supertrees.

Gardens by the Bay Singapore



14.


In a garden of superlatives the Supertrees are like nothing else you will have seen – perhaps ever. Half triffid, half graceful orchid, these magnificently surreal creations stretch skyward not just in a grove but scattered throughout the park. In stark contrast to the natural botanic landscape of the gardens, they are proudly, garishly, gorgeously manmade. Rather than trying to disguise and blend with the surrounding greenery, they reach to the azure sky above in shades of mauve, magenta and maroon.
Their proud contrast is their greatest moment. Like an artist’s rendition of a garden, the lines between imagination and reality blur when you absorb the magic of the supertrees.
Swooping at high level between the trees , suspended and almost invisibly supported, is the walkway. Defying gravity, an engineering feat of real grace, this walkway is the crowning glory – the ultimate moment of this processional journey through the Gardens. Trembling ever so slightly beneath many feet, the walkway curls around the trees, offering views you will want to capture on film at every turn.  Make sure you leave yourself the time to go up to the hidden cafe - even higher than its surrounding trees, - and savour the views one last time before you leave.
Visiting Singapore was always a pleasure, but now it must surely be one of the most exciting cities on earth.
Here is a prediction: In less than five years the Gardens by the Bay will take over not only as the number one attraction in Singapore, but as one of the top travel destinations in the world. Singapore will make you smile. It will make your heart sing. My next visit cannot come soon enough!

 SIngapore
                                                       15.


Photos:
1 –  The Supertrees – Gardens By The Bay
2 – The Singapore River with the Elgin Bridge in the foreground and Marina Bay Sands sneaking into view behind.
3 – Abdul Gafoor Mosque
4 – A devotee immerses herself in purifying smoke in front of the
Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple on Waterloo Street , Bugis Junction.
5 – The street market at Bugis Junction
6 – Layered by time – street cafes, shop houses and sky scrapers along the Singapore river west bank.
7 – A street band provides music and colour to a downtown stroll.
8 – The gleaming double-helix needs constant attention if it is to remain spotless and pristine.
9 – Icons abound. The lotus inspired museum to the left, and the amazing Marina Bay Sands to the right.
10 – In the flower pavilion a photo-shoot takes place.
11 – The breath-taking entry to the Cloud Forest.
12 – In the Cloud Forest looking from the processional pathway down to ground zero.
13 – And looking up at these gravity defying walkways amidst lush mountain forestation.
14 – The Supertrees and their walkway. No – not an artist’s representation, - the real thing.
15 – A last glance back past the Supertrees to the Singapore Eye and cityscape in the distance. 

Monday 27 August 2012

Woodend Beachcomber

Woodend Beachcomber

One of my very favourite things is to relax in a glorious outdoor bath as dusk slowly falls and the sky begins to fill with stars. Add to this the distant sound of gently rolling waves and it could be that you too, have found your way to Woodend Beachcomber. Far enough from the city for the sky to be the deepest of velvety tones, but close enough to the city to still use this as a base for your favourite event, -  with Christchurch just a twenty minute drive away, this is a great place to be.

The accomoodation provided for you at the Beachcomber is a pleasure to be in. The ccolours are clear, pure and attractive and the decoration is to the highest standard. This is a top inner city stay, yet you will find it near a beach in the countryside, where you would least expect it. 


Being within walking distance of Woodend Beach is a further bonus, and in Winter this is a beach you will have all to yourself with its long expanses of sand and dunes not to mention its award winning life saving tower.

The outside bath, tucked into a private corner of the section, is an ideal retreat. With plenty of candles supplied, a glass of wine and hot water on tap, this may not be as rustic as lighting the fire and waiting for the waters to heat, but it is sooo much simpler!

 As dusk falls there is time to enjoy the birds flitting overhead to roost, but particularly it is the silence and escape from the traffic and buzz of the city which is most noticeable. Later - a trip into the city, a concert which is anything but quiet, and the challenge of negotiating the wrinkled ragged streets - but what is life without contrasts to heighten its pleasures. 







Tuesday 21 August 2012

Waipara Sleepers

A Night at Waipara Sleepers

Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Waipara is just a little town not too far north of Christchurch - maybe three quarters of an hour as a leisurely drive. Once it was little more than a railway town but the railway died and the life blood was sucked out of Waipara ... that is, until they discovered that the region had an undiscovered talent; -  it was very, very good at growing wine. This has been the saviour of the Waipara region, and some very good New Zealand wines now come from this locality.

Another plus with the retrenchment of the railways, was the fact that New Zealand Rail began to have a surplus of rolling stock. Take one enterprising Waipara resident, and in 1990 Waipara Sleepers was born.


Three ex-NZR guard vans are now settled comfortably into the grounds of this small but popular camping ground. (Mid winter it may be at present, but the camping ground was easily half full when I visited.) The three vans still rest on rails but this is just to ensure the vans feel at home. The truth is they are no longer going anywhere any more. Nearby the familiar form of the New Zealand railway station can be seen on its platform. The station too has found an alternate use - it is now the camp kitchen.

The transformation of each guards-van  into overnight accommodation has been skilfully and intelligently accomplished. One part of the van is now the sitting room, the second half is the bedroom. With a shiny polished brass double bed for the night, and traditional red leather New Zealand Railways issue seats still in place in the sitting room, the whole conversion has been cleverly managed to achieve maximum usability and comfort.

Add  really attractive tree filled grounds to this, and a particularly reasonable price for a bed for the night and all in all Waipara Sleepers adds up to an excellent place to stay.

Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Saturday 4 August 2012

Akupe Gypsy Caravan

Akupe Gypsy Caravan

Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Not more than ten minutes drive from Martinborough is Akupe Farm. Only hard to find if you are driving too fast, you may be fraught with doubt as I was,  as to whether you had missed it or even whether you were on the right road. However the directions from the owners are good and there it is, just where  they said it would . Do not expect to actually see the gypsy caravan - its hidden from the road. Obviously in terms of privacy this is a good thing; -  in terms of being sure you are in the right place - not quite so reassuring.

Akupe Cottage and Akupe Gypsy Caravan sit near to each other behind a cluster of tall trees. Painted maroon and white and sitting on its metal wheels it is indeed, a gypsy van. However it has been in one place for a long time and in all honesty its not likely to be heading out onto the back country roads again at any time soon without a good deal of work.
A little more love and care to the exterior would help a lot with that critical first impression as you pull up alongside your accommodation for the night.  Inside however, the van is spotlessly well kept, and has an interesting, patterned theme throughout. Is it an authentic gypsy sense of style? - maybe not. (It doesn't have the remotest similarity to the vans in 'My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding' - thank goodness!)  But it's appealing none the less, with its lacy curtains and floral trims. I liked it.

The van has a pot belly stove, an inside shower and toilet, a small kitchen, and a very comfortable double bed. Unfortunately not being smart enough to work out how to make the fire go, it was the heater for me.  Ditto for the gas fired hot water! There were instructions for this, but whether I got these wrong or whether I  simply didn't wait long enough for things to heat up, enough, I never really managed to work out.

However the van has some lovely touches. The convenience of having all those services tucked in under the one roof was a pleasant surprise and is not to be underrated. The bed was ultra soft and was clad in a gorgeous satin duvet cover and matching sheet and pillows.. So nice! The windows were leadlight with ruby red cathdedral glass in the split stable door.

I must admit I like to meet the owners when I choose a place to stay but it was not to be. No doubt they were respecting my privacy which is in itself a considerate approach, just not my preference.Who put together this cosy little creation I wondered. Where did the van come from? Was it very old? Was it ever on the road? So many questions ...


Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/













Saturday 14 July 2012

The Ghosts of the Vulcan Hotel

A Visit to St Bathans

Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Far off the beaten track in the heart of Central Otago is a small cluster of buildings. This is St Bathans, - once a thriving town of thousands, bustling with miners hungry for gold.The Vulcan Hotel is the only hotel which remains in this isolated spot, yet the locals come from far around to drink at the bar, and the visitors and toursits join them, -  but probably struggle to keep up because this is Speights country.


Not many people search for gold here any more, even though there are more than a few who believe there is still gold to be found. So if the tourists do not come for gold, do they come for the strange ethereal scenery; the beauty of the Blue Lake; the ever-changing trees that stand like bare spectres in the midst of winter, or rustle in the warm winds of autumn. Well no. Mostly they come to see the ghost.

Her name was Rose. She was murdered for her gold they believe, - gold she had earned as a lady of the night, - and there were many willing to pay. She was killed in the front bedroom of the Vulcan - one of 13 public houses in St Bathans at the time. 

You can still rent her room to this day and be a guest of the Vulcan. Maybe you will encounter one of the hotel's ghosts - because word is that there are not one but three ghosts, who still wander restlessly through the quiet corridors.

I did not encounter Rosie nor her entourage. In fact I spent a very pleasant evening in the company of the patrons and the very hospitable staff. The Vulcan is a friendly, pleasant, rather nice place to stay - a place which still retains a sense of presence and style belonging  to its nineteenth century past.

No ghosts chose to reveal themselves to me. But I believe they were silently present. St Bathans - not a ghost town  - but somehow a slightly mysterious place, all the same. A part of me wondered if this was not in fact, some parallel universe that I had been fortunate enough to stumble upon.

Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Sunday 3 June 2012

The Stables at Otaki

The Stables at Otaki

Pippy McCurdy: 
 http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

An overnight stay in the Stables tucked into the back roads of Otaki is a step back in time.
As you enter from the road and begin to wind through the property the layers of the present gradually drop by the wayside. First the humdrum necessities of running a day to day business surround you; - the nursery, the packing shed, the  horticultural implements:  Then it's the house, the trampoline , the garden, the barbeque;  then around a corner, down a small lane, the trees creep closer overhead, the sunlight becomes dappled as it filters down. – You've reached your destination.


Tucked into this grove of ancient elms is The Stable; decorative, quaint, semi-ornate. This is a gingerbread house with a purpose; a groomsman’s cottage shared at one time by man and his animals.
The high pitched roof is decked in slate; the half stable doors remain. Step inside to rich warm timbers and country decor. The light fittings are brass. The pot belly stove dominates the kitchen.

The second bedroom downstairs is a cosy little room, with a Goldilocks bed tucked into the corner; -  simple and snug. Take the winding staircase up to the second floor and step in to a long and spacious attic room, tastefully furnished with a small Juliette balcony looking out over the forest of trees . The bed is enticing; the ground is carpeted below with autumn leaves of a million hues. The picnic table sits waiting for company; the swing hangs from the overhead branches.  Spring bulbs surround the edges of the copse waiting for the first heat of the new season to show their true colours.

Bring your own food with you – if you are hungry you will struggle to find anything other than takeaways in the nearby town after 5pm.  For those of you who hanker after your nightly dose of TV this is not for you, – however there is an interesting choice of DVDs supplied.
Nevertheless if you are looking for a simpler world and a peaceful old-English retreat set in a clearing in the forest, this may be the one for you.

Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/
http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/

Saturday 19 May 2012

Ohinemuri Estate Karangahake Gorge

Ohinemuri Estate


The Karagahake Gorge is a rather spectacular destination – especially after the flat regularity of the Hauraki Plains. Replace slow flowing canals with shallow white water rapids: replace vast expanses of farmland with steep hills bordering on mountains and with native bush clinging where it can. Add in several  picturesque swing bridges and the historic remains of old gold mining works, and you have a fascinating area in which to spend some time.


Ohinemuri Winery has found a home in amongst these hills. It has taken over a cluster of 1930s farm buildings and converted these to serve its purposes as a successful business venture. Ohinemuri provides both a restaurant and accommodation. It provides Ohinemuri wines to the tables, and also offers sales on line  -  and they are very good! Grapes are grown under contract to Ohinemuri in a number of locations throughout New Zealand –  thus allowing  the appropriate varietal to be sourced from its ideal location prior to pressing.



The restaurant makes use of a building which began life as the stable; the accommodation is in the converted hayloft above. On one wall a fascinating picture of the buildings as they once were, provides an interesting reference to the original use.



The buildings themselves were established in a European chalet style by their initial owner who came in fact, from Latvia. With their 45 degree pitched roofs snowfall is not going to be a problem. Clustered in a  and providing shelter to a sunny outdoor courtyard for diners, the buildings make an appealing setting within which  the outstanding food can be enjoyed.





The restaurant closes at 5 pm but the friendly staff will provide a platter for your room if requested, and with the restaurant opening again at 10 am there is ample opportunity to sample the cuisine. 
The strength of Ohinemuri winery is in fact in its food, its wines, and its friendly and hospitable staff. The accommodation itself needs to be updated to  match Ohinemuri’s excellence in other respects,  if the overall high standard is to be maintained.

Websites: http://www.unusualstays.com/

http://www.stumbleuponcroatiaslovenia.com/